In the speciality world, there currently seems to be two opposing views: one is that the pinnacle of speciality coffee is experimental processing - carbonic maceration, co-ferments, yeast inoculation - while others believe that Geisha coffee, with its clean florality, represents the highest expression of speciality coffee. Geisha is prized for its exceptional sweetness, floral notes like jasmine, rose, and bergamot, and bright fruit flavours such as cherry and raspberry. But what exactly is Geisha, and why has it become so popular?
The Geisha varietal was first identified in Ethiopia in the 1930s, in the mountains near the southwestern town of Gesha—its namesake. From there, the plant made its way to Central America in the 1960s, studied by the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center in Costa Rica and circulated through other regions, including Panama. But Geisha coffee wasn't met with much enthusiasm from farmers. It only became popularised within the speciality coffee world in 2004, when a Geisha coffee from, the now renowned, Hacienda La Esmeralda caught the attention of judges at the Best of Panama coffee auction, breaking the then-record for green coffee auction prices, selling for over $20/pound.
Today, Panama Geisha is one of the most sought-after coffees in the world, consistently scoring at the highest levels and fetching extraordinary auction prices. But why does Panama dominate the Geisha market? The country has near-perfect conditions for coffee cultivation—distinct microclimates, high-altitude forests that provide natural shade and wind protection, and the bajareque, a mist that slows cherry ripening, enhancing flavour complexity. Geisha, more than most varietals, is highly sensitive to terroir. While it can be grown anywhere along the coffee belt, achieving its full potential requires significant effort, investment, and the right conditions—something Panama naturally provides. The country’s established reputation and continued access to resources allow it to maintain its standing at the top of the Geisha market.
Yet, while Panama has cemented itself as the leader in Geisha production, more farms across the coffee belt are beginning to cultivate it, exploring how different environments influence the final cup. Supporting these producers is key to understanding the true range of Geisha’s potential—and to seeing how terroir shapes this exceptional varietal beyond the borders of Panama.
Want to experience Geisha beyond Panama? Here are some standout coffees from other origins.
