Angola, coffee, and the long shadow of extraction

Angola, coffee, and the long shadow of extraction

By Saskia Chapman Gibbs, ,

Angola’s relationship with coffee is often reduced to a simple rise-and-fall story. A former giant of global production, undone by war and instability, now trying to find its way back. That version is not wrong, but it leaves too much out. Coffee in Angola sits at the intersection of colonial violence, forced labour, global demand, post-independence collapse, and a modern economy shaped almost entirely around oil.

To understand where Angolan coffee is today, and what a future recovery might realistically look like, it helps to step back and look at what coffee has meant to the country across two centuries.

 

Coffee under colonial rule

Coffee arrived in Angola in the early nineteenth century under Portuguese colonial expansion. By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, it had become one of the pillars of the colonial economy. Production expanded rapidly, particularly in the north, and by the early 1970s Angola was one of the world’s largest coffee producers and a leading exporter of robusta.

This expansion was deeply violent. Large settler estates relied first on slavery and later on forced and contract labour systems actively maintained by the colonial state. Land was taken from subsistence farming, taxes were imposed to push people into wage labour, and rural livelihoods were steadily eroded. Coffee wealth accumulated narrowly among white settlers and a tiny African elite, while most Angolans experienced falling living standards even as exports grew.

Coffee was not just an economic crop in this period. It was embedded in political repression. Plantation labour conditions were a flashpoint for resistance, most notably in Baixa do Cassange in 1961, where striking agricultural workers were met with extreme violence. Coffee workers were not on the margins of Angola’s struggle for independence; they were at its centre.

 

Angolan farmers and an incomplete story

At the same time, focusing only on settler estates risks flattening the history. Research on Angola’s coffee frontier shows that African smallholders were central to the expansion of coffee cultivation, particularly in northern Angola, long before the large twentieth-century estates took hold. Farmers cultivated wild and semi-wild robusta trees in forested systems, drawing on local ecological knowledge rather than colonial instruction.

This does not soften the brutality of colonialism. African farmers operated within a coercive system that restricted land access, labour mobility, and political power. Their participation in coffee was not free choice in a fair market, but a strategy for survival, security, and status under deeply unequal conditions. Recognising this agency is not about balance or redemption. It is about accuracy.

Angolan coffee was also never simply a Portugal-facing imperial crop. From an early stage, most production was exported beyond the Portuguese market, particularly to the Netherlands and the United States. Global demand shaped production just as much as colonial policy did, reinforcing extraction while tying Angolan farmers into a wider and unequal commodity system.

 

Independence, collapse, and war

When independence came in 1975, it came suddenly. Portugal withdrew with little preparation and no meaningful transfer of power. After independence, many estates were nationalised as the Portuguese withdrew, but the sudden loss of skills, capital, and infrastructure, combined with a highly centralised state, left agricultural production struggling.

What followed was not a clean break from colonialism, but its continuation in another form. Decades of underdevelopment, inequality, and centralised control fed directly into a prolonged civil war that became entangled with Cold War geopolitics. Rural areas were devastated. Coffee trees were abandoned. By the mid-1980s, production had collapsed to a tiny fraction of colonial-era levels.

The war ended in 2002, but the damage was structural. Much of Angola’s agricultural base had been hollowed out, and coffee never regained its place as an economic anchor.



Oil and the resource curse

Instead, oil took over. Today, oil accounts for roughly 30 percent of Angola’s GDP and more than 90 percent of exports. It generates revenue, but it does so in isolation. The sector creates relatively few jobs, links poorly to local businesses, and exposes the economy to global price shocks.

This is the classic resource curse. Wealth flows in, but it does not circulate. Rural areas remain poor. Agriculture is underinvested. Inequality deepens. In a country with vast arable land and a young population, dependence on oil has crowded out the very sectors that could support broader-based development.

Coffee sits awkwardly in this landscape. It is no longer central enough to command political attention, but still carries the weight of history and unrealised potential.

 

Angolan coffee today

Modern Angolan coffee production is small and fragmented. The country still grows primarily robusta, with some arabica planted at higher altitudes. Around 85 percent of production comes from smallholders farming just a few hectares. Much of the infrastructure is outdated. Many trees are old and low-yielding. Processing is mostly natural and sun-dried, with limited access to equipment and finance.

Exports remain modest, and most coffee leaves the country unroasted. Domestic demand is weak, and the value chain is thin. Transport costs, bureaucratic hurdles, and limited credit continue to hold producers back.

At the same time, there are signs of renewed effort. Replanting programmes, seedling distribution, and international support through organisations like UNCTAD are beginning to rebuild knowledge and capacity. These are slow processes, and they sit within an economy still dominated by oil, but they matter.

 

What recovery would really mean

Any conversation about reviving Angolan coffee needs to be grounded in reality. This is not about returning to colonial-era volumes or romanticising a lost golden age. That period was built on violence and coercion, and it cannot be a model.

A meaningful recovery would look different. It would centre smallholders, invest in infrastructure, and reconnect coffee to local livelihoods rather than treating it purely as an export commodity. It would acknowledge history without being trapped by it.

Angola’s future does not lie underground alone. Its soil, climate, and agricultural knowledge still matter. Coffee is one part of that picture, not as a quick fix, but as a long-term, labour-intensive sector capable of spreading value more widely than oil ever has.